Knitting techniques

Each lesson is short and to the point: when to use it, how to do it step by step, a tip and the most common mistake. The same lessons are built into the pattern builder, right next to the rows of your pattern.

Basics

• Knit stitchThe foundation of stockinette: on the right side every stitch looks like a little V.
• Purl stitchWS rows of stockinette, ribbing, garter stitch in the round.
• 1×1 and 2×2 ribHems, cuffs, necklines, bands: a stretchy edge that does not curl.
• Joining in the roundAny knitting on circular needles: hats, top-down yokes, sleeves.
• Markers and counterThey mark raglan lines, sides, the beginning of the round, crown sections.

Casting on

• Long-tail cast-onAn all-purpose cast-on for most projects: stretchy, neat, and it gives you the first row right away.
• Judy’s Magic Cast-On (for toes)Toe-up socks, mittens from the tip, toys: a closed tip with no seam.
• Cable cast-onCasting on stitches mid-work: at the underarm, for buttonholes, for the Japanese shoulder gusset.

Increases

• M1L: make 1 from the bar, left-leaningRaglan lines (after the marker), sleeve increases, waist shaping.
• M1R: make 1 from the bar, right-leaningThe partner of M1L: worked before the marker.
• Yarn overLace (eyelets), buttonholes, decorative raglans.
• Knit front and back (kfb)Quick increases at the edge, in garter stitch where the bump does not show.
• Lifted increaseThe least visible increase in stockinette: raglan lines, round yoke.

Decreases

• K2tog (right-leaning)End of a row, before a marker, neckline and sleeve decreases, lace.
• Ssk (left-leaning)The mirror partner of k2tog: at the beginning of a row, after a marker.
• P2togDecreases on the wrong side: sleeve cap, quick decreases every row.
• Centered double decrease (CDD)Lace (horseshoe, fern), V-neck with a neckband, crown.

Binding off

• Basic bind-offShoulders, sleeve cap, stepped bind-off, anything that should not stretch.
• Stretchy bind-offNeckline, cuffs, sweater hem: edges that need to stretch.
• Kitchener stitch (grafting)An invisible join of live stitches: shoulders, socks, underarms.
• Three-needle bind-offShoulder seams from live stitches (especially after short rows).
• Stepped bind-off (shoulder slope)Shoulder slope, sleeve cap, armhole.

Short rows

• German short rowsBack raise, shoulder slope without steps, smooth curves.
• Wrap & turn short rows (W&T)The classic method, if German short rows are not your thing.

Colorwork (stranded knitting)

• What is colorworkNorwegian yokes, snowflakes, patterned bands: several colors in one row.
• Colorwork in the roundYokes, hats, sleeves, bottom-up sweaters: the most convenient method.
• Colorwork worked flatPieces worked separately: back/front, cardigan, blanket, scarf.
• How to hold two yarnsAny colorwork.
• Long floats and catchingWhen the chart has more than 5 sts of one color in a row.
• Tension and gauge in colorworkBefore every colorwork project.
• New color and endsThe beginning of each band of the motif.

Cables

• Right cross cable (2/2 RC, C4B)Ropes, braids, honeycomb. The stitches travel to the right and the cross leans right.
• Left cross cable (2/2 LC, C4F)The partner of the right cross: ropes, braids, horseshoe.
• How to read a cable chartBefore any chart with cables.

Necklines and collars

• Crew neckThe classic for pullovers and sweatshirts. Front depth 6–8 cm, back 2 cm.
• Scoop neck (U-neck)Summer tops, long-sleeve tees, vests. Depth 10–14 cm.
• V-neckVests, cardigans, pullovers worn over a shirt. Depth 14–22 cm.
• SquareRetro silhouette, vests, tops. Width neck/2 + 5 cm, depth 8–12 cm.
• BoatA wide shoulder-to-shoulder neckline: sweaters with a Japanese or drop shoulder.
• Mock neckA 6–8 cm collar that stands up close to the neck.
• TurtleneckA tall fold-over collar, 18–22 cm.
• Double-layer neckbandA neat, firm edge for a neckline or band.
• Rolled collarA relaxed finish for a crew, boat, or square neckline.

Assembly and finishing

• Stitches on waste yarnSleeves when dividing the yoke, shoulders to be joined later.
• Picking up stitches along an edgeNeckline, bands, vest armholes, picking up at the underarm.
• Mattress stitchSide seams, sleeve seams, setting in sleeves.
• ButtonholesCardigan bands.
• How to weave in endsAlways at the end.
• Blocking (washing and drying to size)Before measuring a swatch, before seaming pieces, and always for lace.

Measurements, swatch, charts

• Swatch and gaugeBefore every project. All the math depends on gauge.
• How to measureBefore calculating a sweater.
• How to read chartsLace, colorwork, cables.